Early development and socialisation

The first weeks with the breeder or rescue matter enormously; puppies raised in enriched, handled environments are better prepared for the world. Socialisation means positive, gradual exposure to people, dogs, surfaces, sounds, environments and handling — not overwhelming the puppy with everything at once. Build confidence without flooding: short, successful experiences beat a barrage of new things.

The goal is a puppy who is neutral and calm around people and dogs, not one who greets everyone and everything. Being measured is a skill, not a problem.

Fear periods, sleep and overstimulation

Early puppyhood contains a particularly sensitive period for social development, often described as beginning at approximately three weeks and extending to around 12–14 weeks. Individual development varies, and later temporary increases in caution may also occur. Socialisation is not simply meeting large numbers of people and dogs — habituation, recovery and emotional safety matter, and the goal is calm capability and neutrality, not a puppy who greets everyone. Never force a puppy through fear; let them observe, retreat and return when ready. Sudden fear may also reflect pain, illness, stress or a previous experience, not only a developmental phase.

Puppies sleep up to 18 hours a day, and sleep is when the brain and body develop. Overtired, overstimulated puppies mouth more and cope less — protect rest as carefully as you plan play.

Teething, mouthing and bite inhibition

Puppy teeth and the mouthing phase are normal and important. Teething begins in earnest as adult teeth replace deciduous ones around four to five months. For the detail on why puppy teeth are so sharp, how bite inhibition is taught, and tooth counts, see the Teeth, Jaws & Bite Inhibition section.

Mouthing is not automatically aggression, but persistent or escalating biting needs professional assessment.

Growth, exercise and adolescence

Growing joints are vulnerable. There is no universal minute-by-age exercise formula suitable for every puppy. Exercise should be age-appropriate, varied, largely self-paced and adjusted to the puppy's build, health, confidence and response. Prioritise free, self-paced movement, sniffing, short positive outings, play on suitable surfaces and frequent rest, and stop before fatigue. Avoid forced-distance walking, repetitive jumping, sustained road running, endless high-speed ball chasing, and repeated sharp turns and stops.

From around six months, the sweet puppy may become a testing teenager. Stay consistent — adolescent regression is normal, and calmness is a learned skill. The dog who emerges at two is built on the patience you show at one.

Toilet TrainingView source for this information

House training is one of the first things a puppy needs to learn, and the key is a predictable, daily routine. Take your puppy out first thing in the morning, every two to three hours during the day, shortly after each meal, after waking, after drinking, and after play or excitement. Use a word your puppy can associate with toileting, and give lots of praise and a high-value reward when they go in the desired location. Learn your puppy's individual pre-toileting signs, such as circling or sniffing, so you can take them outside in time. Never punish an accident or force the dog's face toward it — clean the area thoroughly and use it as a learning experience. Crates can help with timing and supervision but do not teach bladder control and must never be used to force a puppy to hold on beyond its capability. Older and rescue dogs can learn new toileting routines in the same way.

Sudden House-SoilingView source for this information

A previously toilet-trained dog who starts soiling indoors may be communicating something other than a lapse in training. Sudden house-soiling can reflect urinary, gastrointestinal, mobility, pain, cognitive or emotional problems and may require veterinary assessment. Do not assume it is behaviour alone; if soiling is new, frequent, accompanied by other signs or appears painful, speak to your veterinary practice first. Once medical causes have been assessed, an accredited behaviourist can help with any remaining routine or emotional factors.